Annapurna: The First Conquest of an 8000-Metre Peak

Annapurna The First Conquest of an Metre Peak One of the great works of mountaineering literatureWITH AN INTRODUCTION BY JOE SIMPSONIn no mountain higher than meters had ever been climbed Maurice Herzog and other members of the French

  • Title: Annapurna: The First Conquest of an 8000-Metre Peak
  • Author: Maurice Herzog
  • ISBN: 9780099541462
  • Page: 381
  • Format: Paperback
  • One of the great works of mountaineering literatureWITH AN INTRODUCTION BY JOE SIMPSONIn 1950, no mountain higher than 8,000 meters had ever been climbed Maurice Herzog and other members of the French Alpine Club resolved to try This is the enthralling story of the first conquest of Annapurna and the harrowing descent With breathtaking courage and grit manifest on everyOne of the great works of mountaineering literatureWITH AN INTRODUCTION BY JOE SIMPSONIn 1950, no mountain higher than 8,000 meters had ever been climbed Maurice Herzog and other members of the French Alpine Club resolved to try This is the enthralling story of the first conquest of Annapurna and the harrowing descent With breathtaking courage and grit manifest on every page, Annapurna is one of the greatest adventure stories ever told.As well as an introduction by Joe Simpson, this new edition includes 16 pages of photographs, which provide a remarkable visual record of this legendary expedition.The distinguished French mountaineer Maurice Herzog was leader of the 1950 expedition to Annapurna He was one of the two climbers to reach the summit.

    Annapurna Massif Annapurna, The First Metre Peak by Maurice Herzog Annapurna is subtitled First Conquest of an Meter Peak and is the account of the French Himalayan Expedition The first two thirds of the book alternated between interesting information and slow going as the expedition was organized and arrived at the base camp. Annapurna The First Conquest of an , Sep , Annapurna The First Conquest of an , Meter Peak Kindle Edition by Maurice Herzog Author Annapurna The First Conquest Of An , Meter Peak Mar , Annapurna is a true adventure story of a French mountain climbing expedition Two of their members are the first to reach the summit of a M peak Unheard of, many thought it could not be done. Annapurna the th Highest Mountain in the World The American Women s Annapurna Expedition, composed only of women, made the first American ascent of the mountain Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck made the first ascent of a new route solo up the , foot high , meter South Face of Annapurna on October and , . First Ascent of Annapurna Herzog and Lachenal Annapurna I Northeast Face Annapurna was climbed for he first time in , by Maurice Herzog and Louis Lacahenal.

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    About “Maurice Herzog”

    1. Maurice Herzog

      Herzog was a French alpinist most famously associated with the conquest of Annapurna in June 1950 This was the first 8000 metre peak to be climbed, a feat made remarkable by the climbers decision not to use supplemental oxygen during the climb Although the climb was successful the descent became a two week epic, from which Herzog narrowly escaped with his life.Herzog s book of the expedition, Annapurna, has long been regarded as one of the most significant and inspirational texts in the mountaineering genre.Herzog subsequently enjoyed successful careers in politics including as French Minister for Sport from 1958 1963 and sports administration including as a member of the International Olympic Committee from 1970 1995.Herzog s military service during WWII was recongnised by the French Government which awarded him the Legion d Honneur and the Croix de Guerre.

    411 thoughts on “Annapurna: The First Conquest of an 8000-Metre Peak”

    1. The writer or the translator described the events in this book in a way that made it not worth my time. I was astoundingly impressed with what was accomplished considering the technology they had, while smoking, but found myself scanning through pages that left a lot to be desired.


    2. Well written but pretty self-aggrandizing account of the 1st summit of 8,000 m peak.On the one hand it's cool to read about how they did things 60 years ago - starting with finding the actual mountain! Since no 8,000 m peak had ever been climbed (this was 3 yrs before Hillary/Tenzing on Everest) nothing was a given including what face to assault and how to actually get there in the first place!Later learned Herzog forced all other members of his party to sign waivers to NOT write personal accoun [...]


    3. This was one of the first adult books I read as a child about 60 yrs ago. I still remember how much I loved it. I have recommended it to a couple of my grandchildren as a reminder that there will be many challenges in life, most conquerable with determination.


    4. I love mountaineering and this is the king of mountaineering books. The story of the first 8000 meter mountain to be climbed. The first to be climbed on the first try. Yet, Annapurna still remains the most difficult mountain on Earth to climb. Maurice Herzog's team of French mountaineers suffered greatly for claiming Annapurna's summit, but in the end all I could say is, "They just don't build men like they used to." This crew of post-colonialism adventurers bit off more than they could handled, [...]


    5. The summit of Annapurna was a masterpiece of climbing, and the book is nothing short of a bible for enthusiasts… however, if you’re new to the genre I would still recommend Eiger Dreams by Krakauer. Its much more approachable and far less studied. Annapurna took a while to get off the ground both for the men tackling the rock and for the narrative. They had to find and scout the mountain, set up supply chains, and it was all very tedious, necessary and excruciating. The narrative suffered fo [...]


    6. A readable telling of the first summiting of an 8000m mountain - a few years before Hillary climbed Everest with Tensing. It was the days of bare-footed porters, climbers smoking cigarettes at any given opportunity and Indian Survey maps which only vaguely resemble to actual lie of the land. In fact a chapter is devoted to wandering about attempting to locate Annapurna.There is some controversy over whether the climb eventuate the way this book is told, where Herzog does takes a lot of the glory [...]


    7. I'm not a climber -- I'm a tea shop trekker. I've trekked - walked - in approx 50 of Nepal's 75 districts. I love any trek where I know there's a tea shop at least every couple of hours, and some place for a hot meal and a dry bed at the end of the day. Ice picks and crampons are not my thing. That being said, I enjoyed this book immensely. Even if your interest is more about Nepal more than the climbing, I'd recommend this book. It provides a pretty rare look into the Nepal of 1950, that is to [...]


    8. I'm torn between one star and five. Five star for the high adventure, one star for how the the expedition team treated the locals. This book gives account of 1950 French expedition to Annapurna, where they have to actually locate the mountain first before climbing it. The book itself is a page turner, I practically finished the last half or more in one sitting. While all these are fine and dandy, what is NOT okay is to force, yes, literally force the villagers to work as porters, take the load o [...]


    9. Caution: This is going to be a long review.As pretty much summed up in the description, this is the story of the first ascent of an 8000’er peak. Back in 1950, there was no idea of climbing a peak of such a status. The maps provided by Surveyor General of India and other governmental agencies were insufficient, inaccurate and sometimes misleading. With such maps and an appalling quality of climbing equipment, Herzog and team made it up to the summit of the mighty Annapurna. It surely was a hug [...]


    10. Recently, I ordered a book from Flipkart "Annapurna, The first conquest of an 8000-meter peak". It was first written in French by Maurice Herzog, and then later it was translated into English. Maurice Herzog, was a French mountaineer who became the first man to climb an 8000-meter mountain, Annapurna, which is the 10th highest mountain in the world.I ordered the book on the same day that Maurice Herzog had died. This is my first attempt at writing a book-review and I hope I don't give away the b [...]


    11. This is a bit of a slog until they get to Annapurna and start the summit. After that point, it becomes a gripping story. A large part of me finds it hard to believe such adventures are called a success when the only reason many of the French climbing team is alive is because Sherpas literally carried them down the mountain and then all the way to India (while the white men's digits were literally rotting off). In fact the two who sumitted would almost certainly have died. I don't think their Fre [...]


    12. At long last I've read the "granddaddy" of mountaineering first-person accounts, and it is still a nerve-wracking adventure story more than sixty years later. From being "lost" between two of the iconic 14 peaks of the Himalaya with totally mistaken maps, to the intuitions and skills that would plot a route, to the supreme efforts to haul supplies, to the beauty and glory of the summit achievement, to the excruciating details of the descent and retreat from the mountains, this book has it all. T [...]


    13. Annapurna is subtitled First Conquest of an 8000-Meter Peak and is the account of the 1950 French Himalayan Expedition. The first two-thirds of the book alternated between interesting information and slow going as the expedition was organized and arrived at the base camp. But the final third of the book was so gripping that I read it at one sitting.


    14. Terrific explicit details about expert mountaineering, from preparation and acclimation to handholds and set ropes. The interior monologue of the summiting experience rivals Beryl Markham at her best.


    15. Each spring break when I trek in Nepal, I pick up a book about the Himalayas, and this year's addition did not disappoint. Three years before Everest was climbed, in 1950 a French expedition successfully climbed an 8,000+ meter peak for the first time. The remarkable part of the story isn't the ascent but rather the descent as Herzog and his team were supported down from Annapurna after a first ascent which would change all of their lives and rewrite what was considered possible in the world's h [...]


    16. I have never climbed a mountain in my life-never really felt the urge to climb anything except the stairs in my house! But I do love reading about expeditions and this is without doubt one of the best. There is so much detail about getting ready for the trip, the trek to the mountains, the climb and then trying to trek back out. It really was a dramatic read.It starts with the arrival in India and being held up at customs for two days as they are cheerfully told by staff 'Your equipment can all [...]


    17. This story is of a true heroic mountaineering expedition. The conquest of Annapurna, while shadowed by that of the Everest, doesn't command much lower respect, given the harsh treatment meted out to the heroic mountaineers.Starting from the immaculate arrangements of a large scale expedition, to the strategic moves of exploration within a given time limit, the book initially talks only about how Maurice and his gang slowly discovered and decided the routes and plans. It seemed to take ages, but [...]


    18. I read this a few years back and thought I had reviewed it here but it seems not. I don't recall reading it before I went to Nepal in 2005 but maybe I did. Anyway.Annapurna is a fantastic account by Herzog of the first 8000m mountain climbed, perfectly encapsulating the experience of high altitude climbing and the mindset of those who do. It starts off a little dry and boring as they plan and wander through the foothills though having spent a fair time in Nepal, particularly around the Annapurna [...]


    19. Annapurna reminded me of Three Cups of Tea, in that it was a great story that could have been better written. Herzog's recount of his ordeal in Nepal is remarkable for being a first-hand account of an amazing adventure that he and his party barely survived, but I found it lacking somehow. I'm not sure if it was missing the dramatic tension I expected, or perhaps the level of emotion Herzog had to have been experiencing wasn't relayed to the extent expected I'm not quite sure. I was glad I read i [...]


    20. Took about half the book to get into it but then it became interestingI found Annapurna to be a bit of a slog to read for a classic adventure novel. The main reason for this was because the first half of the novel, involving the logistics and how they got to the base of Annapurna, were somewhat uninteresting for me. A lot of the route planning, described by Herzog uses jargon that non-climbers like myself may find difficult to comprehend.Having said this, once the team does get to Annapurna and [...]


    21. EXTEMELY GRIPPING READ BEST MOUNTAINEERING BOOKThe expedition of 8 French people, started to conquer 2 "Eight THousander" - Dhaulagiri and Annapurna.The first half of the book deals with the ridges and reconnaissance in search for the route to summit of DHAULAGIRI. After a lot of effort and time, they will learn that DHAULAGIRI is inaccesibleNow the quest to the summit of ANNAPURNA starts. 3 ridges (routes) to the summit are proved fatal and dangerous. But at last one ridge is discovered by one [...]


    22. This is a fabulous book and thrilling read. For some reason I always want to read high altitude mountaineering books in July! Herzog is admirable in many ways, but I can't help but notice the macho arrogance and patriarchy of the men who speak of "conquering" and "attacking" this magnificent natural geleologic wonder with"assaults" on this mountain whose name means"Goddess of the Harvest". They continuously gravelly risked the lives of many many others to bring them down from the mountain after [...]


    23. As an adventure novel, Annapurna holds up. The pacing is mostly excellent, the descriptions of complex climbing techniques don't bog down the narrative and the dialogue is tense. It falls down when read from a 2016 perspective. The casual racism toward the Sherpas and 'Coolies' is tough to read; Herzog comes off as super paternalistic. Also, the egos at play are funny at times and exhausting at others.



    24. OsinskipoludzkuPrzyznam szczerze, że lektura tej książki to wynik ostatnich wydarzeń związanych z Nanga Parbat i Tomkiem Mackiewiczem o których głośno było na całym świecie. Kiedy śledziłem przebieg tych wydarzeń, to ciągle nie dawała mi spokoju myśl co takiego jest w tym sporcie, że człowiek jest w stanie aż tyle zaryzykować. Liczyłem na to, że "Annapurna" pozwoli mi przynajmniej po części zaspokoić moją ciekawość. Czy tak się stało? O tym poniżej.Z początku Mau [...]


    25. Annapurna was the first of the "over 8000 meter" mountains that was climbed and Maurice Herzog was the leader of the French expedition that conquered it. This was in 1950 and the obstacles of the time are very evident. They had very limited knowledge of the area, few maps and what they had turned out to be inaccurate. All communication between the base camps ended up being by courier as they could not get their radios to work on the mountain. This is the book that American mountaineer Ed Viestur [...]


    26. A lot of emotions and I was still left with the feeling that what we are told is not even the tip of the iceberg - we do not get that much of what went on between the members of the expedition nor about what went on in their heads. Especially after they had conquered Annapurna. Random thoughts: * the level of geographical/spatial imagination described in the first part of the book when they were trying to find a route to the mountain was totally beyond me! * Weird how the expedition relies so mu [...]


    27. An amazing, heroic, touching story! It is impressive what people can achieve. I was reading the book while trekking Annapurna Circuit and visiting some of the places along the route of Maurice's Expedition (Manang, Tilicho lake, Muktinath, Leti, Miristi Khola, etc). It added to the book's charm, since it was quite interesting to compare 1950 and now. I appreciated the book's simple endearing language and humour. Also, it was interesting to read and understand how mountaineers actually conquer 8k [...]


    28. Kindle edition has no photographs.A great adventure read, taking the reader kicking and screaming back to the days when helicopters and cellphones and highways didn't exist. Man's spirit is on bare display, unencumbered by conveniences we take for granted. Well told, almost unbelievably so, but I seriously missed maps, diagrams, and photographs of the expedition. I'm not sure whose idea it was to release the E-edition in a "words only" format, but I feel sure Herzog would not approve. I took a s [...]


    29. A beautiful narration of Himalayan summit This beautiful book dates back to the era when latest equipments did not came into existence and mountaineers were in the mercy of weather due to lack of proper communication methods. Herzog detailed step by step to the summit which any mountain lover can relate himself. However the most interesting part is how Annapurna takes revenge on the submitters. A must read for Himalayas lovers, in fact for any mountain lover.


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